When rumors of a new Thomas Keller cookbook began to c irculate earlier this year, I struggled to contain my heady excitement. I carefully rearranged my cookbook collection, carving out space next to Keller’s previous luscious tomes—The French Laundry Cookbook, Bouchon, and Under Pressure—well-worn and gathering dust in a sunlit corner of t he kitchen. All were published by Artisan under the critical eye of the amazing editor Ann Bramson, and all garnered awards and praise from the foodie community. But while I greedily devoured every page—enjoying the writing, the sumptuous photography, and the thrill of being vicariously in the kitchen with America’s leading chef—what I didn’t do is cook much from these books. I found them variously too complicated, too intimidating, too exotic…